Wednesday, July 20, 2011

1886 or 1896?

I found this fashion ad for a riding habit dated 1886. Pay special attention to the habit on the left.

As you already know, I really enjoy finding these ads and then finding a real riding habit (either antique or reproduction) and comparing the two!

This beautiful creation is dated 1896, but they look so similar that I really do think they are from the same fashion period.

As long as I live, I think I will never tire of looking at Victorian and Edwardian fashion!


Jon & Jen said...

Two different time periods. The second is most definitely 1896 with the huge puffed sleeves. Here is a jacket from the V&A dated to 1886 with a similar look to the engraving: and here is one dated to 1895 like the habit you found:
The sleeves are entirely different, though the look of the jacket may be similar.

sidesaddlegirl said...

Again, you can see what a 10 year difference can make in terms of women's fashion! :)

Although tight bodices for habits (and normal day fashions) remained popular in the 1890's, 1880's habits would have always had tight sleeves with no puffing. The exception is that sometimes about 1889- 1891, you will see the short lived "kick-up" sleeves where there is a sharped pointed upwards "puff" to the top of the sleeve.

The kick up sleeve then evolves into the leg 'o mutton sleeve like what is seen in the 2nd habit by the mid 1890's.

For day wear, the kick up sleeve then kind of returns for a brief time at the end of the 1890's- 1900 but it isn't as severe looking as the the 1889- 1891 one. By this date though, habits are starting to move away from a bodice and towards a jacketed habit like what we wear today so sleeve style become less important for habits.

The pointed peplum remained popular at the back of bodiced riding habits throughout the 1890's until jackets took over.

For day wear, by 1902- 1903, the sleeve is tight again with puffing at the wrist area and by 1905- 1906, the leg 'o mutton sleeve makes a brief comeback again but with a more deflated look like a dress that I used to have in my collection:

These sleeve changes only apply to day wear in the Edwardian era not to Edwardian habits though as by these dates, you are looking at a plain straight sleeve on formal habits which is why there are still Edwardian habits being worn today. They are what our modern habits are styled on.

SillyPony said...

I agree that the extant garment is more of the 1890-96 style because of the large upper sleeve. After 1896 sleeves slimmed out again. The peplum of the extant jacket does look a little flat, possibly suggesting a want of bum padding, but perhaps would look fuller when mounted?